General advice
General advice on the hobby
Keeping an aquarium is an exiting and easy hobby with, for those who want it, numerous possibilities.
If you are new to the hobby, the best place to ask for advice is your local aquarium shop keeper or fellow hobbyists. Their advice and expertise usually proves invaluable. The people that run aquarium shops tend to be hobbyists first and foremost and as such are interested that you enjoy the hobby and understand how best to practice it. However, not all shops are alike, so there are a few things to look out for:
Ask for shop recommendations from any people you might already know whom have been aquarists for some time.
The general cleanliness of the shop is a good indicator.
Look for a large selection of both fish and dry goods.
Look for any certificates in the window which state membership of an organization (such as OATA in the UK) and/or staff certificates from aquatics courses.
Check shop tanks for ill or dead fish. If you see any dead or diseased fish it is generally not a good sign.
Honest shopkeepers tend to dispense advice freely and willingly.
In general, if the shop is good this reflects the skills and experience of the owner and staff. We would also recommend purchasing a proven general fishkeeping guide. The hobby has a huge range of published material from the very basics to the most specialist areas of aquarium keeping. Subscribing to an aquarist magazine will keep you up to date with new products and developments in fishkeeping as well as having lots of useful articles, advice and tips. If you already know anyone that keeps fish ask them for advice as other hobbyists are often the best source of information. You may wish to join a local/ national fishkeeping club where there are significant pools of knowledge. Increasingly the Internet is proving to be an invaluable source of advice on all areas of fishkeeping.
Treating algae
When treating algae it is important to keep the following in mind:
1.The amount of algae growth in your aquarium
2.The presence of algae-eating fish (Catfish, Otocinclus, Algae Eaters, etc.) and other algae- eating inhabitants (for example shrimps, etc)
3.The use of CO2 and / or plant food
4.The use of fertilized substrate
5.The use of water conditioners
1. The amount of algae growth in your aquarium
If you have large quantities of algae in your aquarium, it is advisable to remove as much as possible by hand before and during treatment.
Large quantities of dead algae cause a deterioration in the water quality. The decomposing process takes oxygen from the water and pollutes the water.
You could compare it with mowing the lawn. If the grass is not long, one can leave the cuttings lying on the lawn. If the grass is long and the cuttings are not removed, you may have seen that the grass underneath turns yellow.
2. The presence of algae-eating inhabitants
If your aquarium contains algae-eating fish or other algae-eating inhabitants, it is advisable to prevent these animals from eating lots of dead algae. Because dead algae are easy for them to eat, they eat a lot of them, but (because of the decomposition) they are damaging to these animals' health.
3. Use of CO2 and / or plant food
Algae are primitive plant species, therefore they feed themselves with the same nutrients as plants in your aquarium. If you are treating algae, while your CO2 installation is still on and / or you continue adding plant food, it is possible that you will not have any results. On the one hand you try to combat the algae whereas on the other hand you continue to feed them.
Therefore, it is advisable to turn off your CO2 installation and to stop adding plant food during treatment.
4. Use of fertilized substrate
When using fertilized substrate the same is applicable as with CO2 and plant food. Fertilized substrate releases substances to promote plant growth and thus also feeds algae. Also, fertilized substrate contains binders to gradually release these substances; under circumstances these binders can also bind other substances.
5. Use of water conditioners
Under normal circumstances and dosages, water conditioners cause no problems. However when used excessively, because of their strong binding capacities, water conditioners (de-chlorinators, heavy metal binders, etc.) can potentially decrease the effectiveness of products such as disease treatments, algae / snail treatments, etc. or even give rise to reactions. Generally, it is sufficient to perform a large water change with tap water (in case of chlorine, aerate tap water).
For more information check the Advice section, subject "Water conditioners"
Treating snails
When treating snails it is important to keep the following in mind:
1.The level of snail colonisation in your aquarium
2.The use of water conditioners
3.Preventative bath Gastropex
1. The level of snail colonisation in your aquarium
If you have a high level of snail colonisation, it is advisable to remove as many snails as possible by hand before and during treatment.
Large quantities of dead snails cause a deterioration in the water quality. The decomposing process derives oxygen from the water and pollutes the water.
2. The use of water conditioners
Under normal circumstances and dosages, water conditioners cause no problems. However when used excessively, because of their strong binding capacities, water conditioners (de-chlorinators, heavy metal binders, etc.) can potentially decrease the effectiveness of products such as disease treatments, algae / snail treatments, etc. or even give rise to reactions. Generally, it is sufficient to perform a large water change with tap water (in case of chlorine, aerate tap water).
For more information check the Advice section, subject "Water conditioners".
3. Preventative bath Gastropex
Snails often get into your aquarium through new plants. Therefore, use Gastropex as a preventative bath with new plants. Put the plants in a bucket of water and add the first day dosage of Gastropex. After 1-2 hours take the plants out by the roots with the top down and gently shake out the snails. After this you can plant them in your tank.
Water conditioners
1. Introduction
Water conditioners are frequently used to remove chlorine, to bind heavy metals (such as Copper, Zinc and Lead), but especially to protect the skin layer of fish.
Under normal circumstances and dosages water conditioners cause no problems. However when used excessively, because of their strong binding capacities, water conditioners (de-chlorinators, heavy metal binders, etc.) can potentially decrease the effectiveness of products such as disease treatments, algae / snail treatments, etc. or even give rise to reactions.
2. What they do
They bind not only chlorine and heavy metals, but also the active components in products such as disease treatments and algae/snail treatments - and not just the left-over components, as is sometimes claimed. Unfortunately, a water conditioner cannot differentiate between 'useful' active components in an aquarium and the residue.
3. When you need them
You need a water conditioner if:
- You are setting up a new aquarium.
- You do not use tap water for your aquarium. Tap water which is suitable for drinking, does not contain heavy metals, therefor it is not necessary to remove and / or bind them.
- Your tap water contains chlorine. One can smell this very well when taking a shower. In this case it is sufficient to aerate your tap water well (using an air pump) or by using a shower head or watering can when changing water.
4. How to remove them
Water conditioners can remain active for even over 1 year. The active components of water conditioners in aquariums can be removed only by changing water.
Solution: change 50% of aquarium water with tap water which is suitable for drinking without adding water conditioners*. If necessary repeat this for a second time.
* If your water contains chlorine, you can remove this easily, by aerating the water for 24 hours with an air pump, by using a shower head or watering can when changing water or by filtering the water once over fresh active carbon before adding it to the aquarium.
Chemically-active products
1. Adsorbing filter materials
Adsorbing filter materials such as active carbon and zeolite are used to remove harmful substances like nitrite/nitrate from the aquarium. They are also used to remove the remaining active components of disease treatments and algae/snail treatments after use.
The substances which have to be removed adhere to these filter materials, as a result these substances no longer float around in the aquarium.
After a certain period of time, depending on the level of pollution, the filter materials become saturated and need to be replaced by new. Under normal circumstances it is not necessary to use these materials continuously. There only needed to remove harmful substances or active components of, for example, disease treatments and algae/snail treatments.
Because adsorbing filter materials also adsorb the active components, it is advisable not to use them during the course of treatment with, for example, disease treatments and algae/snail treatments, because the effectiveness can be influences or reactions can even occur.
In some cases (for example in case of fluctuations in pH), adsorbing filter materials can release the adsorbed substances. In this case it is possible that substances that have been stored for days or even weeks are set free all at once. This sudden release of large quantities of harmful substances can have severe consequences for the life in an aquarium. Usually, poisoning is the result.
2. Plant food
There are several forms of plant food available, such as liquid plant food, plant food in tablet form and fertilized substrate (for more info read: "Fertilized substrate").
In tablet form, plant food gradually releases substances to promote plant growth. Binders are used to release these nutrients gradually. In some cases these binders are able to bind other substances, but they can also release them again.
By binding, plant food can also potentially decrease the effectiveness of disease treatments and algae/snail treatments or give rise to reactions.
Especially in the case of algae treatments, plant food (in any form) can potentially decrease the effectiveness. Algae are primitive plants; by using plant food, on the one hand algae are fed, while being treated on the other.
3. Fertilized substrate
Fertilized substrates gradually release substances to promote plant growth. Binders are used to release these nutrients gradually. In some cases these binders are able to bind other substances, but they can also release them again.
By binding, fertilized substrates can also potentially decrease the effectiveness of disease treatments and algae/snail treatments or give rise to reactions.
Especially in the case of algae treatments, fertilized substrates can decrease the effectiveness. Algae are primitive plants; by using fertilized substrates, on the one hand algae are fed, while being treated on the other.
4. Oxidizers & UV
As the word says, oxidizers (hydrogen peroxide, etc) cause substances to oxidize (for example like rust on iron). Mostly the effectiveness of products that have been added (Disease treatments, Algae/Snail treatments, plant food, etc.) decreases and sometimes reactions can even occur.
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